Growing Apricot in Australia: The Complete Guide

Apricot is a moderate stone fruit tree to grow, needing full sun with regular, deep watering.

Apricot is one of the moderate additions to a home garden, and this article walks through everything behind our one-page printable guide in a good deal more depth than a single card allows.

It's worth being clear about why apricot is worth the bed space before getting into how to grow it. At a glance, it's rated moderate, with a sun of full sun; water of regular, deep; soil ph of 6.0–7.0 — details that matter more once you're actually planning around them than they do on a first read. The rest of this article works through exactly what each of those means day to day, in more depth than a single printable card has room for, and with the reasoning behind each recommendation rather than just the recommendation itself.

Climate and Timing Considerations

Australia's climate zones change growing timing more than most general advice accounts for. Cool temperate zones (Tasmania, the Victorian highlands, southern NSW) have recurring frost risk well into what other zones call spring, which compresses the safe planting window for frost-tender plantings. Warm temperate zones (Sydney, Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth) sit closest to what general advice assumes by default. Subtropical zones (Brisbane, northern NSW) rarely see frost at all, and the growing calendar shifts earlier and later as a result. Our site-wide zone setting adjusts the advisory note shown on the Planting Calendar for exactly this reason — worth setting once if you haven't already. The same zone setting also feeds the Harvest Calendar, so both ends of the growing cycle reflect wherever you actually garden, rather than a generic Australia-wide average.

• Cool Temperate (TAS, VIC highlands, southern NSW, ACT): shorter frost-free window — lean toward the later end of any spring planting window shown on the guide above.
• Warm Temperate (Sydney, Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth, coastal NSW/WA): closest match to the general timing shown above; frost is occasional but rarely severe.
• Subtropical (Brisbane, northern NSW, coastal QLD): minimal frost risk — often plantable a few weeks earlier and later than the general window shown above.

Early flowering, frost risk

Apricots flower very early in spring, which makes their blossom vulnerable to late frosts wiping out the season's crop — site away from frost pockets if possible.

Planting Apricot

Method. Plant bare-rooted while dormant.

Soil. Well-drained, moderately fertile — dislikes wet feet.

Timing. Plant in winter while dormant.

It's worth reading these as a set rather than in isolation; they reinforce each other.

Day-to-Day Care

Keep these points in mind:

• Choose a sheltered spot away from frost pockets given early flowering.
• Prune in summer to reduce disease entry.
• Water deeply through fruit development, ease off as it ripens.
• Thin fruit for better size if heavily set.

Each of these compounds over a season — small misses early tend to show up later — choose a sheltered spot away from frost pockets given early flowering. Thin fruit for better size if heavily set. Treat this list as a routine to build rather than a one-off checklist, and it becomes second nature within a season or two.

Common Problems

Worth paying attention to:

• Late frost damage to blossom — the main risk; site carefully.
• Brown rot — improve airflow, remove affected fruit.
• Fruit fly — net or bag ripening fruit.
• Gummosis — sap oozing from bark, often stress-related; ensure good drainage and avoid trunk damage.

Getting these details right matters more than it might seem — late frost damage to blossom — the main risk; site carefully. Gummosis — sap oozing from bark, often stress-related; ensure good drainage and avoid trunk damage. Treat this list as a routine to build rather than a one-off checklist, and it becomes second nature within a season or two.

Picking and Keeping Your Harvest

Signs. Full colour, slight give, fragrant.

Method. Twist gently from the stem.

Curing. None needed.

Storage. Room temperature a few days; can be dried for long-term storage.

Taken together, these are the details that separate a smooth result from a frustrating one.

Preserving. See Canning & Bottling for bottling a fruit glut, or Dehydrating for dried fruit.

Companions & rotation

Our printable card above lists specific plants that pair well nearby and others best avoided, along with a rotation note: Basil, Garlic, Tomato. Getting this right matters more over multiple seasons than it does in any single one — the benefits and the risks of poor rotation both compound over time rather than showing up immediately.

Related Guides

If apricot suits your garden, these related guides in the same category are worth a look too:

• Apple
• Cherry
• Nectarine
• Peach

For the condensed, printable version of everything above, head to the main apricot guide page. Companion planting and bed rotation both make a measurable difference over a season, and our Companion Planting Checker takes the guesswork out of both. As with every guide on this site, this is general information based on our own research and experience, not professional advice — your specific soil, climate, and circumstances will always vary from ours to some degree.

Beyond the printable card, our Planting Calendar and Harvest Calendar tools will show a zone-adjusted note for apricot specifically, and the Companion Planting Checker covers the specific pairings mentioned above in more detail.

Frequently Asked Questions

→ View the printable A4 guide for apricot