Growing Taro in Australia: The Complete Guide
Taro is a moderate root vegetable to grow, needing full–part sun with high — thrives in boggy, wet soil watering.
Taro is one of the moderate additions to a home garden, and this article walks through everything behind our one-page printable guide in a bit more depth.
A wet-footed exception
Unlike most root crops, taro actually prefers constantly moist to boggy soil — a low, poorly-drained corner of the garden that's a liability for other crops can be perfect for taro.
How to Plant Taro
Method — plant corms or offsets from an existing plant. Soil — rich, heavy, moisture-retentive — even waterlogged conditions are tolerated. Timing — plant in spring in warm, frost-free, subtropical to tropical zones.
Day-to-Day Care
Worth paying attention to:
- Keep soil constantly moist to wet — this is one crop that wants a boggy spot.
- Feed generously — a heavy feeder over its long growing season.
- Mulch well to retain moisture.
- Protect from frost, which taro cannot tolerate.
What Can Go Wrong
Keep these points in mind:
- Frost damage — kills the plant; only suited to frost-free zones.
- Taro leaf blight — fungal spotting in very humid weather; improve airflow.
- Slow growth in cool conditions — needs consistent warmth.
- Toxic if eaten raw — corms must always be cooked before eating.
Harvest and Storage
Signs — leaves begin to yellow and die back, typically 8–9 months after planting. Method — dig up the whole corm cluster carefully. Curing — none needed. Storage — cool, dry spot, several weeks; always cook thoroughly before eating.
For the condensed, printable version of everything above, head to the main taro guide page.